San
Francisco Bay, a 500-square-mile cleft in
the California coastline, has a split personality.
It is both a major center for water-borne
commerce and a delightful excuse to just go
play.
From
the Central Valley and Sierra Nevada, 16 California
rivers flow into San Francisco Bay. A steady
stream of container ships, freighters and
cruisers docked at more than 40 deepwater
piers attest to its role as a major shipping
lane. But it is the fun side of the bay, that
lures mariners about and aboard, to skirt
the Golden Gate Bridge where ebb tide meets
west wind or happily paddle single kayaks
in Richardson Bay. Scheduled ferry service,
sightseeing and dining cruises offer another
opportunity to ply the bay. However, for those
who don't trust their sea legs, landside pursuits
on the edge of the water can be just as engaging.
Fisherman's
Wharf
Eighty-seven percent of San Francisco's
visitors include Fisherman's Wharf on their
itinerary. With good reason. Waterfront marketplaces
include The Anchorage, The Cannery, Ghirardelli
Square and PIER 39. The Wharf's working hub,
"Fish Alley," sells thousands of tons of sole,
shrimp, salmon, sea bass, squid and other
deep sea delicacies annually. During the crab
season (mid-November through June) devotees
line up for the best of the catch. For an
impromptu picnic, order some cracked crab
and pick up a loaf of sourdough French bread
from a nearby bakery.
A
fleet of historic ships berths at Hyde Street
Pier, a component of the San Francisco Maritime
National Historical Park, which also includes
the Maritime Museum. The USS Pampanito, a
WWII fleet submarine, may be boarded at Pier
45.
On
The City's northern waterfront beyond Hyde
Street Pier and the lagoon of Aquatic Park
(this is a nice side trip from Fisherman's
Wharf), the nearly four-mile-long Golden Gate
Promenade winds past bocce ball courts through
Fort Mason and Marina Green to Crissy Field,
a shoreline retreat adjoining the Presidio,
terminating at Fort Point. Ahead lies the
world's most incredible piece of outdoor sculpture,
the majestic Art Deco-style Golden Gate Bridge.
Completed in 1937 the bridge links San Francisco
to Marin County. For a real aerobic workout,
climb the steps near Fort Point that lead
up to the bridge and make "the walk of all
walks." Click
here for a map.
The
"New" Waterfront
The downtown waterfront district has
been transformed with the removal of the Embarcadero
Freeway. Promenades and tidal stairs descending
right to the water's edge offer easy access.
Cast off from King Street to explore the latest
evidence of The City's waterfront renaissance.
In the balmy South Beach district where a
new neighborhood has risen, palm trees evoke
southern inclinations. Sunny cafes with outdoor
patios are plentiful. Skirting this area,
Herb Caen Way along the southern Embarcadero
is punctuated with historic plaques and pylons
recalling events and people of the past. The
SS Jeremiah O'Brien, the Liberty Ship which
made an historic Atlantic crossing in the
spring of 1994 to commemorate D-Day, docks
at Pier 32. From here head north towards the
Ferry Building, passing directly beneath the
approach to the San Francisco-Oakland Bay
Bridge. Nearby the Embarcadero Center's architecturally
dramatic eight-block complex shelters 19 outdoor
sculptures.
Beaches
For many visitors, Ocean Beach on the
westernmost edge of The City is the first
stop on the itinerary. The Pacific Ocean is
always an exhilarating sight, especially for
first-timers. The expansive windows of the
Cliff House, erected in 1909, are a popular
lookout. Just offshore are the abrupt outlines
of Seal Rocks. They are usually inhabited
by shore birds and a colony of stellar sea
lions. Bring binoculars for a close-up. On
a clear day the Farallon Islands some 30 miles
distant are also visible. Swimming, it should
be noted, is not allowed here. There are two
other sandy pockets on The City's northern
edge. China Beach at 28th Avenue and Sea Cliff,
is one of the few swimming beaches in The
City. Lifeguards on duty during the summer
watch this cove. At Baker Beach, off 25th
Avenue, swimming is dangerous, but the views
of the Golden Gate are alluring for hikers,
fishermen and picnickers.
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